Hi! This is Amanda and today I’m going to show you how I sew the Carita Joggers to make them look exactly like pants, while still feeling like pajamas! They have completely taken over my closet, and by using different fabrics and prints, you can make perfectly-fitting pants that you can wear anywhere!
Fabric Choices
First up is fabric! I’ve used cotton french terry printed with linen textures in various colors and denim cotton spandex to make faux jeans/jeggings, but any thick stable fabric with enough stretch for Caritas, 35%, will work! If you wanted a dressier pant liverpool or scuba would be perfect, and in that case I would not do the top stitching you’ll see down below.
Choosing Sizes
Next up you’ll want to decide what inseam and width at the ankle you want to use! For skinny/fitted pants I use the inseam to my ankle, for a wider leg I go to the top of my foot. Add 1” to this measurement to allow for a 1” hem. I like to add 1” in width to the ankle for a modern fitted look, like the rose brown/pink ones above, or cut straight down from the knee for a bootcut like the blue ones! You could add a flare if you wished, or keep the pattern as is for a skinny jean, like this deep purple pair! With help on taking measurements and choosing sizes we have a blog post here.
Cutting out the Pattern
And now you get to cut! Extend the grain line all along the pattern pieces for the front and back, and measure in ⅜” from the edge, on both sides, of the crotch curve. Draw a line perpendicular to the grain line at the crotch point you’ve marked, and this is where to measure your inseam from!
Measure down for your desired inseam + 1” hem, and measure out for your desired width, on the front and back pieces.
I also like to make inset pockets, for a cleaner look, on the front. Luckily this is really easy! You’ll just cut two sets of mirrored pocket pieces instead of one, and only cut out the pocket opening curve on one set.
The set that you cut the pocket opening curve on will be the front of the pocket, the side away from your body, and won’t be seen while you’re wearing the pants, so I like to cut this in a thinner material just to save the pocket bulk. I use a performance athletic for this as well as the waistband.
Back Pockets
The Caritas don’t come with a back pocket piece, so I have traced a pocket that I like from a ready to wear pair of jeans, but you can also free-hand one! Make sure it is big enough to hold your phone, if you are the sort of person who likes to carry their phone there also! More info on making your back pocket piece here.
I like to do a bit of embroidery on mine, machine embroidery, but you can also freehand a swoosh or any kind of stitch you like, if you want to decorate them a bit!
I have noticed that over time the knit edge of the pocket can get a little stretched out, so I have reinforced the top edge of these pockets with twice the seam allowance width of interfacing, just to give them a little more strength.
And now for the wonder tape! This may seem like a *lot* of wonder tape, and it definitely is. You may be able to get away with less, but I have had the fabric layers shift as I topstitch them if they are not all wonder taped down, and so I like to hold them all in place. Fold over the top, secure with wonder tape, and press, and then use a double needle, coverstitch, or zigzag to finish the edge.
Fold over the two long sides of the pocket, secure with wonder tape, and press, and repeat with the bottom edges, folding one over the other.
Now use yet another layer of wonder tape on the 4 sides of the pocket to attach it to the back pattern piece, keeping the top of the pocket perpendicular to the back crotch curve edge. The back crotch curve will be vertical when the pants are worn, so you want to make sure that your pockets will be facing up when they are!
Mark a line at each corner of the pocket, and when you reach this mark, raise your foot and rotate the pants so that the top stitching remains in line with the pocket. Stitch back and forth at the beginning and the end, on both sides of the top of the pocket, if possible, to reinforce the pocket attachment there. With a stretch needle and a straight stitch, sew a small line at the top edges, going back and forth 6 or 8 times, to provide additional reinforcement.
Front Pockets
Now for the front pockets! I do inset pockets (tutorial here )but you can do them as in the Carita Joggers pattern directions if you’d rather have them as a single layer! For the inset pockets, put the inside front pocket piece right sides together with the front pants piece. If you want to have the binding, place it in between the front pants piece and the pocket piece. Stitch along the pocket opening.
Flip the pocket opening to the wrong side of the front pants piece and press, holding the pocket piece slightly below the front pants piece.
Topstitch in place.
Put the back pocket piece on top of the front pocket piece, right sides together, and sew around the edge of the pocket.
Constructing Pants/Topstitching seams
All the pockets are done, and now comes the (easier) part! When I make Caritas as faux jeans, I like to topstitch the inner leg with a double needle, both to imitate jeans and give the seam a little more strength. I like to use a contrast thread here but you can also use a matching one!
Serge or sew the inside leg seam of the front and back pattern pieces together, the side by the crotch curve and opposite to the pockets. Press the seam to the back and then top stitch. The seam will be wavy, but a good pressing helps a lot!
Serge or sew the outside leg seams of the pant legs, and then along the crotch curve, following the directions in the Carita Joggers pattern. I also topstitch the back seam here!
Fold up the ends of the pants 1” and hem, and attach the waistband, and you have pants you can live it!
I hope this blog has been helpful and if you make the Carita Joggers as pants I’d love to see them! Please post them in the Pattern Niche facebook group and of course let me know if you have any questions or any other pants making tips!
