Sew Along – Unstudied Knot Tee
Hello sewers! Today we are making the Unstudied Knot Tee. This top comes in women’s sizing and uses fabrics with 25% 2-way stretch such as cotton jersey, poly blends, rayon spandex, modal spandex, ITY, DTY and other light weight knits. The amount of fabric needed will depend on the size being made. Don’t forget to pre-wash your fabric!
First things first we need to cut the pattern. A couple of tips when using a PDF pattern:
- If printing, always ensure you are printing full size and chose the appropriate file for your paper type (A4 or Letter). If you use the layers option, you can eliminate all of the sizes you don’t need to make it easier to trace the size you do need. Make sure to transfer all notches and markings.
- If you using a projector, always check the 2” square to ensure you have the proper zoom level to cut the correct size. Again, using the layers option in Adobe reader will allow you to project only the sizes you need. Make sure to transfer all notches and markings.
Now we need to cut our pieces. I won’t go into detail about lengthening or shortening the pattern, or grading between sizes because we have videos that cover these topics which you can find here:
To make the Unstudied Knot Tee you will need to cut the following:
- 1 Bodice piece cut on the fold
- 4 Front Yoke pieces (2 mirrored)
- 2 Back Yoke pieces cut on fold
- Clear elastic or interfacing
Sewing the Yoke Piece
Now that we have our pieces, let’s get started. Seam allowances for this pattern are 3/8” unless otherwise stated. The first step is to stabilize the neckline on your yoke pieces. You can do this in one of two ways:
- Stitch unstretched clear elastic into the seam allowance of the neckline of one back yoke and two (mirrored) front yoke pieces.
- Cut thin strips of interfacing to match the shape of the neckline seam allowance and fuse to your fabric.
I am using the clear elastic method.
Next we will place the two corresponding yoke front pieces together and stitch the centre front seam. Open that and we will stitch the shoulder seams of the front yoke pieces to the back yoke piece. Repeat these steps with the second set of yoke pieces.
Now we will place the two sets of yoke pieces right sides together and stitch the neckline. Clip around the neckline ensuring to not cut into the stitching. Flip the pieces right side out and press.
Attaching the Yoke to the Bodice
Now we will match our yoke to the bodice centre front seam, right sides together. Start by matching the bottoms of the centre front and then match the notches around the neckline. Pin and stitch.
Next fold over ¾” of the bottom front bodice and stitch. You can also finish the edges of the cutouts on the front bodice if you desire.
Making the Knot
Now we are going to twist the front knot pieces around each other and match the raw or finished edges together. Stitch each side leaving about ½” opening for the knot. If you can see a hole from the front, the opening is too big.
Now we are going to fold the bodice piece in half right sides together matching the side seams. Keep in mind the back is unhemmed so it should protrude ¾” past the front at the bottom. Stitch the side seams and press to the back. Fold the back hem up ¾” enclosing the seam allowance from the side seams and stitch. Now fold under ¾” on the sleeve ends and stitch. Ta Da! Your Unstudied Knot Tee is now complete!